Istanbul in 5 Days: everything you need to know

Napoleon called it "the capital of the world", Westerners were bewitched by its atmosphere and today it remains an exotic and fascinating metropolis. Five days are the ideal time to explore it at your leisure and have time to discover its surroundings.

Before we set off to see the most typical sights of Istanbul, we will get acclimatised by visiting three neighbourhoods on the east bank. As a starting point, I've chosen Rüstem Paşa, a mosque just a few metres from the Spice Bazaar.

Rüstem Pasha Mosque

If tiles are your weakness, you absolutely must visit this mosque just a stone's throw from the Golden Horn. Most tourists don't notice it because it's built on the arcades of the old market stalls.

The design bears the signature of Mimar Sinan, the most important Ottoman architect who designed another jewel of Istanbul: the Topkapi Palace. A few metres further on is our next stop.

Galata Bridge

To get to the other side of the Golden Horn, you will have to cross the Galata Bridge. Completed in 1845, it was remodelled twenty years later to impress an illustrious guest, Napoleon Bonaparte.

The current appearance - with the carriageway above and the pedestrian walkway below - was implemented in 1921 and since then, the bridge has not undergone many modifications.

Strolling along its pavements, you'll see fishermen with their rods, bars, tea shops, the Istanbul skyline and the passing boats on the Golden Horn. Some Bosphorus cruises depart from here.

Galata Tower, the Genoese watchtower

From the 14th century onwards, this area of the city was home to a Genoese colony: Pera. It was protected by walls that sheltered a flourishing commercial port. From here, Genoese galleys sailed to their possessions on the Black Sea and made their way back to Italy.

It dates back to 1348 when it was built by the Genoese governor Rosso Doria. With the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottomans, the Galata Tower underwent some modifications but no one saw fit to demolish it.

Over the centuries, the watchtower has been a watchtower, a dungeon, an astronomical observatory and finally a much sought-after tourist attraction.

Take a break

Around the tower you'll find dozens of restaurants and bars to satisfy your hunger. Personally, I recommend the Velvet Cafe.

It is known for its sweet and savoury creations and the reviews speak for themselves. You can enjoy spinach and pistachio pie, Turkish bagels, homemade puff pastries with olives and tahini, cookies and other delicacies.

For a great view, Konak Cafe is your destination. The food is not as good as Velvet but the view is incomparable. If you want to sit at the best tables, you'll almost certainly have to wait a few minutes. If you're in the mood for meat, head for Kapı Karaköy.

Walk down the Kamondo Stairs

During Ottoman times, Istanbul welcomed everyone and religion was not a discriminating factor. The history of this staircase owes much to this aspect, as it was built by a family of Sephardic Jews: the Camondo family.

Isaac Solomon left Venice when the city was conquered by the Habsburgs (1798) and once he landed in the Ottoman capital, it did not take him long to open a bank.

In 1832, his possessions passed to his brother Abraham, who had this elegant staircase built , blending neo-baroque with modernism. The purpose of the stairs was twofold: to shorten the distance between the banking street (Bankalar Caddesi) and the family residence, and to make it easier for young people to get to school.

Admire Istanbul's third largest fountain

In the 18th century, Sultan Mahmud I had a fountain erected in Tophane Square. Its purpose was to provide water for travellers coming from the port and for worshippers at the nearby Kiliç Ali Pasha Mosque.

The monument was designed by architect Kayserili Mehmed Ağa and is an excellent representation of Ottoman rococo. Nearby you'll find numerous cafes, shops and bars with bongs.

If on the first day we familiarised ourselves with the streets of Istanbul, on the second day we focus on the essentials of the city starting with a fascinating place of worship: Hagia Sophia.

Visit the orthodox basilica converted into a mosque

Known for its great dome, Hagia Sophia has accompanied Istanbul since the 5th century. It began life as an Orthodox cathedral, became a Catholic church and was later converted into a mosque.

With the advent of the republic, Hagia Sophia was transformed into a museum, yet it has regained its religious vocation a few years ago. Its silhouette stands out in the skyline and is a must-see of the Turkish city.

If you have time in your 5 days in Istanbul, I recommend you to book a visit to Hagia Sophia to know all its history accompanied by an expert guide.

Take a break

at a restaurant

Who said that the city centre is a bad place to eat? It's true, there are a few tourist traps hidden in the old town of every tourist city, but the Old Ottoman Cafe & Restaurant does not belong to this guild.

The specialities of this tavern are Ottoman recipes. The tastiest are lamb neck (Kuzu gerdan), chicken or beef casseroles and kebab cooked in a clay pot, a very scenic recipe (Alemdar, Cağaloğlu Hamamı Sk. 17).

Admire the mosaics of the Blue Mosque

Its unmistakable silhouette dominates the city and you may not know that its minarets caused a lot of fuss. Only the mosque in Mecca had six turrets and the more orthodox religionists felt that the temple in Istanbul could not replicate this peculiarity.

Legend has it that while discussing the project, Ahmed I mentioned 'golden minarets'. However, the word 'golden' had the same sound as the word 'six' and the building ended up having six slender turrets. It was not a good idea to contradict the Sultan's orders.

If you want to see the Blue Mosque as well as the Hagia Sophia, it is a good idea to combine them in one visit and book a tour of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

Explore the underground

Between the two mosques, a sober building hides a hidden treasure. Walk through its door and you enter an extraordinary place, the Basilica Cistern. Originally a Roman basilica, it was destroyed by fire. After the Nika riots in 532, Emperor Justinian I had a cistern erected to store water.

Forgotten by the Ottomans, it was rediscovered a few centuries later and is now an attractive tourist destination. The underground cistern retains its original columns and some decorations have survived the passage of time. The best known example is the jellyfish heads protruding from the water.

Once you have finished your visit, you can have a bite to eat in the local bars and restaurants.

For the third day, I invite you to book a cruise along the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, because after all that walking, you need to pamper yourself a little. But that's not all, read on.

From there, you will be able to see the monuments that I will tell you about below, which I also invite you to visit at street level, moving from one to the other by ferry.

Haliç, the natural harbour that splits the European coast in two

The Golden Horn is a tongue of sea that insinuates itself into the heart of Istanbul. For 2000 years it was the main port of the city and was protected by long walls. To secure access to the sea, a huge iron chain barred the way to enemy ships.

From here, you will enjoy a 360° panorama of European Istanbul.

Spice Bazaar

Also known as the Egyptian Bazaar (Misir Çarşisi), this is an institution in the city. If you're a cook, you'll find hundreds of exotic ingredients such as Rose Petals (a Turkish speciality), Çörek otu (Nigella seeds or sometimes black cumin) or Pul Biber, Aleppo pepper.

Visit two places of worship

The first stop is the Yeni Valide Mosque. It was built in the 18th century during the reign of Ahmet III, who dedicated it to his mother. The temple is located on Çamlıca Hill, one of the highest points in the city.

From here you can admire an incredible view of the Princes' Islands and the Uludag Mountains.

Once you have finished your visit, you can go to the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque. Named after the adjacent pier (uskudar), it is part of a complex that includes a hospital, a school and a large kitchen. This huge building was designed by Mimar Sinan, the quintessential Ottoman architect.

Sail to Dolmabahçe Palace

Dolmabahçe Palace is a magnificent building in the Beşiktaş district that stands on land that has been reclaimed from the sea during the 18th century. It was the official residence of the sultans from 1853-192 and its architectural style reflects the spirit of the times.

Turkey wanted to open up to Europe and the new centre of power winked to the West with this Versailles-inspired palace. I encourage you to book a visit to the Dolmabahçe Palace to see its gardens bathed by the waters of the Bosphorus. After your visit, the ferry will take you back to your departure point.

If you are passionate about history and World War I in particular, I recommend a trip to Gallipoli. This peninsula separates the Sea of Marmara from the Aegean Sea and was the scene of a fierce battle between two empires: the British and the Ottoman.

Sail to Gallipoli

The UK's aim was to capture Istanbul and establish a safe sea route between Russia and the Mediterranean. The high command believed that the Ottomans would capitulate quickly, but they did not reckon with the resistance led by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the father of the modern Turkish state.

The offensive ended in disaster for the attacking forces and many soldiers were left forever on the peninsula. The trip to Gallipoli is one of the most interesting excursions you can make from Istanbul because of its historical interest and the beauty of the surroundings. There you will be able to see:

• ANZAC Cove, the headquarters of the Australian and New Zealand troops during the eight months of the campaign.
• Brighton Beach, the place where the military rested between battles. Named after the Melbourne suburb of the same name.
• 57th Infantry Regiment Monument, commemorates the first soldiers to engage British troops.
• Lone Pine Memorial, the memorial to Australia's fallen.
• Johnston's Jolly, an Allied cemetery.
• Mehmetçik Monument, a statue depicting a soldier carrying a wounded man in his arms.

Fast FactsTours usually start from a central location in Istanbul and last between 10 and 15 hours. You will have to get up a little early, but I assure you it is worth it.

As for the cost, it's usually between €80 and €120 and includes transport in an air-conditioned vehicle, lunch and an expert guide. If you decide to go, I recommend you wear comfortable shoes.

End the day in a special place

If you want to end the day in style, I recommend dining at Feriye, a restaurant with a stunning panoramic window overlooking the Bosphorus, the Ortaköy Mosque and the 15th of July Martyrs' Bridge.

It is located in a complex of palatial buildings by the sea and offers a cuisine that reinterprets Turkish classics. If you're travelling to Istanbul in summer, you'll need to book in advance. I recommend ordering:

• Mezze, an assortment of appetizers usually served before the main course.
• Karnikara, black pea hummus.
• Atom, a cream made with strained yoghurt, dried cayenne peppers, garlic and butter.
• Manti, a spicy beef.
• Lambdumplings.

No trip would be complete without some well-deserved relaxation. In Istanbul, leisure is synonymous with Hammam. For this reason I recommend you dedicate a morning to the delights of the Turkish baths.

End your holiday in style

After breakfast, take a stroll to Ağa hamamı, the oldest Turkish bath in the city. It was built in 1454 by Mehmet the Conqueror and was intended for himself and his male heirs.

In Ottoman culture, the hot bath was a very important ritual and an essential part of social life. Nowadays, when you book a Turkish bath you can choose from four packages: traditional, massage, double massage (body and head) and Ottoman - you'll come out reborn!

And if you want more alternatives, here's an article about Turkish baths in Istanbul.

Find the best spots in the Balat neighbourhood

In the past, the Balat quarter was home to a community of Jews, Muslims and Christians. In fact, many Jews who were expelled from Spain in 1492 moved here. Over the years, Balat fell into decay and its colourful buildings were left in the olive grove.

Fortunately, Unesco earmarked funds for the restoration of Istanbul's historic areas and Balat was reborn from the ashes. It is a fascinating place and is known as the hipster quarter of Istanbul.

In addition to the steep streets and colourful houses, tourists come here to admire the Greek Orthodox Fanar College - its shape and red bricks reminiscent of a castle - and take a break in the many bars, cafes and shops in the area such as the Maison Balat café, the Toy Museum and the Vodina street bars.

Say hello to Istanbul with a fish lunch

Before heading back to the hotel to finish packing, why not enjoy a meal and a nice after-dinner drink? If you want to end your trip on a high note, I recommend walking to Galata to eat at a restaurant with a view: Eleos.

Its cuisine combines the tradition of Greek tavernas with the flavours of the Aegean. Eleos serves mainly seafood and from its terrace you can admire a splendid panorama over Istanbul. Take the opportunity to take a few last photos.